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I learned that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

14 ounces firm potatoes, cut into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.